Ivins Cattle Ranching: Survival and Success in San Juan

Livestock and ranching have been central to survival in San Juan County since 1880 when pioneers first arrived through the Hole in the Rock. Keith and Deann Ivins are descendants of early pioneers in both Nevada and San Juan County, Utah. Deann’s ancestors include William Adams and May Boland who were San Juan settlers. Her great grandfather John Adams had 4 sons: Ernest, Joe, Lloyd and Melvin who were lifelong ranchers. Upon arriving in San Juan territory, they split up the available range land into 4 areas for each of the brothers. Keith grew up in a Mormon settlement in Lund, Nevada population 200. It was composed of miners, ranchers and Native Americans. Droughts were a problem there as well. They ran a dairy farm, milking between 40-50 cows. He remembers driving to school when he was 6 years old! There were only 20 enrolled in their little school. Kids grew up quickly in those days with chores at home plus work at school. Today the BLM as well as the U.S. Forest Service require permits to graze animals anywhere in the west; however, in 1880 it was open range for anyone ambitious enough to ranch. Usually, the Adams brothers ran sheep and had as many as 15,000 for many years. Ben Sanchez and other local Mexican workers were excellent sheepmen and cared for herds in the mountains in the summer. However, it became increasingly harder to find the help they neededso they transitioned to cattle which don’t need constant herding like sheep do. Another problem with sheep were the wolves and coyotes who roamed the area. However, in the late 1950’s the government started paying trappers for hides which helped control the wolf population in San Juan. (See issue 5 of Blue Mountain Shadows)

As the Ivins/ Adams family transitioned to cattle, they invested mostly in black Angus, as they produced better beef. Shawn and Tyler Ivins bought Lynn Patterson’s land for their summer range; however they move cattle to the mountains in hot months. Rico, Colorado is another area used by the Ivins family in the summer, as the grass is more abundant there. Trucker Dennis Cosby has trucked cattle for the Ivins family for nearly 40 years, transporting them back and forth between Utah and Colorado. Over 64,000 acres of BLM land is also available; however, permits are required. The BLM determines the number of animals approved based on AUM (animal units for 3 months) 1 cow = 1 AUM. Besides complying with BLM requirements and making sure there is adequate water for animals, ranchers also care for hundreds of animals. making sure they are branded, given vaccinations for grubs, pneumonia, and are ear tagged. Recently they have added technology to help them track cattle. A collar with a battery is attached to all cattle and is on all time so that each animal can be quickly located. The Ivins grandchildren are also involved in this process and sometimes their family teams up with the Grovers or other ranchers at branding time which makes it a social event! Water is also a major concern for animals and alfalfa fields. Wells, dams and reservoirs are key ingredients to success. To have enough water, some ranchers have drilled wells. That is the case with rancher Sandy Johnson and others living on Black Mesa, Mustang, Valley of the Gods, or the Butler Wash area. Many are turning to solar collectors to generate electricity to run solar pumps which pull water into troughs for cattle.

Like a good poker player, ranchers also need to know when to "hold ‘em" or when to sell or move animals to a new range. There are many pluses for ranchers and farm families: children learn to work hard, get up early, and make decisions for the good of the family, livestock and the land. Sons David, Justin, Shawn, and Tyler have their own animal related jobs and are also competent ranchers, ropers and businessmen.

Christmas memories and celebrations

Families throughout the world have unique ways of celebrating Christmas. Because of its significance in our lives and the diversity of our traditions, Christmas memories are different for each family and person. Though the central focus is on Christ’s birth, our remembrance of him and our experiences are different, as well as how we celebrate. Here are some of those memories that others have of this holiday. Gayle Shumway: When I was a Senior in High School, our Seminary teacher, Mitch Kalauli planned an experience for us that I will never forget. Our class started raising money in the fall of that year for Christmas gifts to deliver to selected homes on the Navajo reservation. We prayed to be guided in the gifts that we purchased; we bought mostly toys, wrapped them, and some of our class drove deep into the reservation. Larry Lee was dressed as Santa Claus, and he waited outside the hogans and houses until we had been inside for a few minutes. Those little hogans were sparsely furnished with the bare necessities, a cooking stove, bedrolls against the walls, table, chairs, a few shelves built into the walls sometimes a weaving loom. They were bigger than they looked, and we all fit inside. I remember especially one hogan with wide-eyed, excited little children and a toothless grandma more excited than the children who loudly laughed with glee! We sang Christmas carols and then pretended that we heard Santa's Reindeer and Larry would make his entrance and present gifts. As we watched, tears filled our eyes, and joy filled our hearts. We learned the spirit of giving; we also learned to appreciate the abundance that we were blessed with. I will always remember the love that I felt in those homes on the Navajo reservation. Rosalie Payne: Christmas and the winter season were one of the best parts of growing up in Idaho. One of my fondest memories is that my dad would hook up our horses (Lady and Taffy) to the sleigh and we would ride around our little town taking friends and neighbors some kind of special treat my mom had made. Of course, any holiday has favorite foods. At some point in the holidays, we would get Yorkshire pudding and huckleberry pie. Sylvia Shumway: Ever wonder where the term “Christmas givet” came from? I think my brother Craig introduced it to friends and neighbors after he learned it. The origin came from a man, not sure if he was Navajo or Ute. But my father had hired him to work in the uranium mine dad owned. Every Christmas Eve my family would wait for his knock on the door. He would say “Christmas givet” to us. We would give him what he needed for his family if we had anything extra and usually, we would include food and snacks as mom always made extra just for him. That is when I learned the joy of giving and sharing. Janet Wilcox:

One Christmas I’ll never forget is when six of my friends rode the school bus home with me to our farm which was 22 miles from Ririe where we attended school. The weather was perfect for sleigh riding and we anticipated a couple of fun days, before my father would take us home in his army truck. Unfortunately, there was a terrible blizzard that blew in that night, and we were officially snowed in for several days longer. There were no phones on the farm so we couldn’t call their families. Fortunately, my mother was a great cook and she had chili and donuts and several things already prepared. We had a large basement with multiple beds, a pool table and ping pong table so there were lots of things to do. We played fox and geese, had snow ball fights, and sledded down the hill, jumped on the beds, sang silly songs and talked late into the night. After a few days the blizzard subsided and we bundled up and rode in the back of truck back to Ririe! One tradition we did for years when we were raising our own children was to a secretly deliver something which corresponded with the each of the 12 days of Christmas. I believe it was the Eberhard family who first delivered 12 consecutive gifts to us when our children were younger. As they got older, they helped prepare and deliver the items such as “golden rings” = donuts; partridge in pear tree became a “dove” soap or a pear; 8 maids a milking= milk duds; drummers drumming = small decorative drum. The trick was to quietly come to the door, place the gift, ring the bell then run quickly or hide where they couldn’t be seen. They also did a lot of snow shoveling (and sometimes snowball throwing!) in the neighborhood. Another thing we did when our children were young was to go to the nursing home with the Stubbs family. The children would dress up as wise men or angels and they would sing 4-5 Christmas songs. Afterward they would deliver a simple gift to each of the residents there. The home we lived in at that time, didn’t have any insulation so gigantic icicles would form. This was the memorable icicle!

Life is SEW fun for local Seamstress

It may seem that life at the Four Corners Regional Care Center might be so-so, but for Becca Ivy, it's SEW, SEW! Becca has been happily residing there for seeral months and uses her sewing talents to make pillow cases for othr residents. She began sewing in 2007 when she lived at the Grayson apartments in Blanding A friend taught her how to make pillow cases and gave her tips on sewing. She has made at least 100 of them since. "I enjoy making things for others and giving them away," she explained.

She lived in Arizona for some time and sewed there as well, making dozens of strip quilts for family and friends. She has owned several sewing machines, but Brother is her preferred brand. To keep this seamstress happy and busy helping others, she would appreciate donations of fabric. If any local quilters have stashes of fabric they would be willing to donate, please take them to the care center earmarked for Becca. She as well as future recipients will appreciate any donations.

2,500 mile journey to the temple in Brazil

With LDS temples dotting the earth in these latter days, it’s hard to imagine the sacrifice that early members in foreign countries had as they traveled to a temple in the 1990’s. Blanding dentist, Andrea Twitchell, recalls the distance, time and expense that her family and early members in Manaus, Brazil had as they set out into middle of the Amazon rain forest to go to a temple for the first time. Her parents were converts to the church. Her mother was from South America and immigrated to escape the dictatorship that existed in Chile. She found a job in Manaus about the same time her future husband arrived from southern Brazil in the 1980’s. Members of the church in Manaus yearned to be sealed as families in the temple but there were no good roads for much of the 2,500-mile journey to the nearest temple in São Paulo. The trip was expensive and often dangerous. For most members going to the temple was outside of their reality. Despite these challenges, mission president Claudio R. M. Costa worked with local members, including Pedro Acosta, to organize a caravan to the temple. Many families made financial sacrifices as they saved for the trip. Air fare was too expensive to consider and even bus and boat were still very expensive. Many saved for months to afford the trip. Some sold their worldly belongings or took extra work to afford passage. Finally, on November 25, 1992, 102 Latter-day Saints embarked on the treacherous, weeklong journey, traveling first in 3 boats and then in 3 busses. They ran out of water during the first leg of their voyage and the river water was too polluted to drink. Their solution was to gather on the deck of the boat and pray. Leonardo Arevalo remembered that “heavy clouds gathered, the sky grew dark, and it began to pour.” They collected the water in pans and buckets, the passing storm miraculously providing enough fresh water to last until they reached the next city. At various cities along the route, members of local branches provided meals for the travelers. The branch in Ji-Paraná welcomed them with a sign that read “Sacrifice Brings Blessings.” Those in the caravan gratefully recognized that these members had sacrificed to help them reach the temple. Through these experiences, members of the caravan sensed they were an integral part of a larger community of Saints in Brazil. On the sixth day, the travelers erupted with cheers when they reached São Paulo. After spending an entire week at the temple performing ordinances for themselves and for their ancestors, they could testify that “sacrifice brings blessings.” Twenty years and many caravans later, the Church dedicated a temple in Manaus (a city of 2 ½ million people) in 2012. That first caravan will forever symbolize the sacrifices that Saints in Brazil are willing to make to claim their temple blessings. There are now 10 temples in Brazil and 14 more under construction or in the planning stage. Currently there are 1,525,436 members in Brazil. This makes Brazil the country with the third-largest Church membership worldwide, behind the United States and Mexico. https://www.churchofjesuschrist.org/imgs/7fdc77a9f807b48221b504097ab15c9089446db3/full/!1600%2C/0/default

Ernest J. Sondregger’s legacy: Building homes, businesses, and churches

Ernest J. Sondregger’s legacy of building homes, businesses, and churches began in 1949 when he received his Utah Contractor’s license # 105 and constructed their family’s first home. His wife Vernetta was a diligent photographer and recorder of their experiences; thus a well-documented history of his building and business projects exists. In 1950 his company built Devere Halls’ home, Southwest Gas, and Dr. Matheson’s Home and office in Monticello; in 1951 homes were built for Sarah Barton, Dale Kinnamon, and the Kay Johnson home in Blanding. In 1952 the Edway Redd home was built as well as a business facility for Eddie Saul. Fletch Bronson’s home was built in 1953, as was The Navajo Trail Motel built in Mexican Hat. They also built Tom Jones’ home and the Monticello Seminary that same year. In 1954 Sondreggers built homes for Lisle Adams and Grant Bronson as well as The Dairy Queen in Monticello. The Mexican Hat Motel was built in 1955 as well as the Walton Apartments, the Harris Shumway home in Blanding, and the Marvin Lyman Motel in Blanding.

Most of those well-built homes are still lived in today, including the Ruth Redd and Kenny Shumway homes which were built in 1956. That same year Sondreggers built the State Road Shed as well as a home for R.J. Fellmeth. The following year, homes were built for Dr. Goon and George Walton and The Hess Motel office was completed in 1957 as well as 3 teacher houses in Blanding (which are still in use today). The Bowen Motel addition was finished in 1960. Joe Cooper and Wm Walton’s homes were built in 1961. The Moab Seminary building was completed in 1962. A home for Helen Knight was built in Moab in 1968 as well as the Moab Elementary School. That same year a brick triplex was also built in Blanding on 3rd west, which continues to be used and the Bowen Motel addition was finished.

Several big projects were next on the Sondregger horizon: the auditorium at San Juan High was built in 1964. Young’s Machine Office was built in 1966 and the library and cafeteria at San Juan High completed in 1966-67. An addition to the San Juan Hospital in Monticello was built in 1968. An article published in the San Juan Record May 9, 1968 states: “The new wing at San Juan Hospital is beautiful and practical in every sense and is a real addition to an already excellent facility for the citizens of San Juan County. It has a total of 36 beds and employs 40 people which includes part time help along with four registered nurses, 14 aids, in addition to kitchen and laundry workers and technicians. There are two isolation rooms and two semi-private rooms.”

The Sondreggers finally built their own family home and moved in August 11, 1969. As with all the homes and business built, it too was constructed to last. In 1970 Sondreggers built the Monticello Elementary School, as well as homes for Calvin Perkins, Bryce Redd, John Baker, Don Palmer, Jerry Holliday, and the Blanding Clinic In 1971. The Mexican Hat Chapel was also completed as well as a home in Blanding for his daughter Relva and husband Bob Bowring. In 1972 the company built a home for Harold Allen and an apartment building for Bough Bayles, near the Blanding post office. Kigalia I was also completed by Sondregger’s in 1973 which provided needed apartments in Blanding. In 1974 they completed a split-level home for Richard Colman as well as a home for Kevin Ramsay. 1975 ushered in more homes: Gary Adair, Karl Barton and Joe Davis had homes built and an office was completed for Dr. Goon. The Gateway Motel was built in 1978 as well as the Donald Bayles home in Blanding. In Monticello they built the Phillips 66 station, as well as the AEC dropdown dam in 1974. Mule Canyon Ruins exhibit was completed in 1975.

Earnie Sondregger’s community spirit and skills did not go unappreciated. In a letter to the editor Mike Young wrote. “Dear Mr. Sondregger: In behalf of the Monticello Chamber of Commerce, I would like to thank you sincerely for your assistance in our effort to install a sidewalk between the two schools in Monticello. Without the use of your equipment, which you so generously donated, and without the assistance of your experienced employees, our job would have been much more difficult. We especially appreciate the efforts of your son, Paul, Mr. Verl Bell, Mr. Gaylen Schaugaard and Mr. Elmo Redd. We want you to know that your generosity and assistance was most valuable and enabled us to construct a very professionally done sidewalk. Sincerely, Mike Young, President, Monticello Chamber of Commerce.“

The Blanding Clinic was completed and officially opened in January 1984. Present for the ribbon cutting were Rayburn Jack, Ernest Sonderegger, Cleal Bradford, Bob Low and Dr. James Redd. For the first time in Blanding, a doctor, nurse, and x-ray technician were available 24 hours a day. Mayor Cleal Bradford stated at that time: “A nation can be measured by how it treats its aged, sick and those unable to care for themselves. Guen Smith, who served on the Health Care Services Board recalled: “As recently as 25 years ago, the Navajo people were not given health services. I’m happy today to know that this new facility is for all people.” Sondregger was also associated with Interstate Homes for 11 years. He stated in 1990: “These modular units were of high quality, thus were able to capture 90% of the business in San Juan.” They provided his company with units for homes, apartments and motels for over 40 families.

Along with running his company, he also served as Mayor of Monticello receiving 429 of 500 votes in 1987. For Monticello’s Centennial the following year, Sondregger instigated construction of a Welcome sign and events throughout the year. Some events included Winterfest, snow sculpture competition, 24th of July parade and activities and articles in the San Juan Record “100 years under the Horsehead.” Danny Walker and Merri Allyson Redd were winners of the Centennial logo and theme contest. In August of 1988 Mayor Sondregger pitched the first horseshow at the Utah State Championship tournament in Monticello. In more serious activities as Mayor, he worked with the U.S. Department of Energy to have them compensate the city on damage caused by trucks using Clay Hill Road in their cleanup of contaminated soil south of the old uranium processing mill.

In 1991 The Days Inn was built on the north end of Monticello. It featured a decorative stucco work, a drive-through covered entrance, 43 rooms and an indoor pool and hot tub. It is still one of the nicest motels in the county.

Blanding's Stained Glass Guru

Most people think of Mark Lyman as a skilled counselor and friend, but he also has many creative talents. He majored in Art at BYU and graduated in 1967. This led him to a skill that few people are patient enough to learn: Creating stained glass windows. He first encountered the majesty of stained glass in the Cologne Cathedral while living in Germany in the 60’s. "It was the first time I appreciated the practice of medieval people building stone cathedrals, soaring higher than seemingly possible, with stained glass windows placed along the walls high enough to cause you to look up, heavenward. The combination of stone, colored glass and incense in the air must have been a magical and humbling experience for Medieval people. as it is for us today." The combination of stone, colored glass and incense in the air must have been a magical and humbling experience for Medieval people. As it is for us today. Years later the Lymans took their family back to Cologne to see if they could recapture that magic. "It was still there and has been each time we’ve visited" That same experience and sense of awe can be found in cathedrals all around the world. The famous Rose window in the Notre Dame Cathedral survived the fire of 2019 and is again open to the public, as well as the lesser-known Saint-Chapelle, also in Paris. "We have experienced St. Paul’s and Westminster Cathedrals in London, Canterbury Cathedral, St. Albans in Copenhagen, Sulzberger Dom and Nurnberg Abbey in Salzburg, as well as many smaller, lesser-known cathedrals. St. Savior’s Church in Bar Harbor, Maine has the largest collection of Louis Comfort Tiffany stained glass windows. These are at eye level, and although marvelous, don’t seem to inspire the same sense of wonder. They feel more like an art museum. Being forced to look heavenward seems to be good for the soul." In many ways stained glass as an art form is similar to piecing a quilt, though not as easy to fix if you make a mistake. First the size is determined, then the pattern and color scheme is planned using the various colors of glass. Glass is usually purchased at art stores and then the artist determines a pattern and what colors to use. This is where the real artistry begins, as glass is cut into specific shapes, then tediously put back together into a visual masterpiece.

There is a unique range of materials involved in making stained-glass. The palette consists of colored glass, copper foil, and solder (which holds the creation together). As with other art forms, first the creator plans the design on how the various colors and shapes will fit together in a predetermined space. Next the shapes are traced onto the colored glass using. The glass has to be clean and dry on both sides and then is scored with a sharp tool specifically used for glass, so it breaks precisely as planned. Straight lines are cut first, then the curved ones. All the edges require sanding (with fine sand paper) so they snuggly fit, like puzzle pieces. This is followed by melting copper foil which is moldable and will bend on both sides around the glass. The final step is soldering every piece together with an 80 watt soldering iron, using flux so that both sides stay in place. The foil is like wire and comes in various colors depending on the artist's preferences. Even a small stained glass piece 14X 20 inches may take as long as a week or more to create. Mark has made a dozen or more 4X8X6 pieces and several larger 20X20 stained glass panels. As with all art forms there may be disasters along the way, but the final outcome is still worth it! It is not an simple skill to learn. If you're looking for a quick and easy imitation, you can just paint on glass, which is evidently what was done on the large glass window in the old south chapel.

Veterans Memorial To Be Built in Blanding

For decades, soldiers from San Juan County dedicated their time and often their lives to the cause of freedom. From WWI to more current conflicts, hundreds of local soldiers have served in order that the freedoms we cherish are preserved. American Legion Post #97 Commander Tony Wojcik and Andy Mikesell Adjunct are currently working to build a permanent veterans outdoor memorial near the visitors center on Center Street. This will honor veterans who have served in all branches of the military. Families of soldiers past and present and county residents are asked to join in this effort.

Even though an archival tribute to veterans is located on the north side of the Visitors Center, it is locked because of vandalism in the past and can only be accessed by visitor center staff. It contains details such as: family connection, birth and deaths of older generations of soldiers. However, the American Legion determined to build a memorial so that people can participate more directly, as well as reminding visitors of all who have served. The local American Legion Post #97 was started after WWII vets returned in 1948. Blanding always celebrated with farewell socials when soldiers left and returned. The history of many of these soldiers and their letters home are included in issue 20 of Blue Mountain Shadows.

A series of fortunate events prepared the way for this current project. Many will remember the old rodeo grounds northeast of Blanding. It included 40 acres of land, a rodeo arena as well as a racetrack. When Monticello built a better rodeo and fairgrounds, the Blanding rodeo property was abandoned and any materials left were either stolen or damaged. After 50 years the acreage was officially turned over by the BLM to the American Legion Post #97. After much deliberation it was decided to sell the land to Sondregger Construction who wanted to purchase it for gravel production. That sale provided the needed funding for the Veterans Memorial Project. The vision for the project came about after Wojcik started brainstorming to find a way to honor all branches of the military. He presented his ideas to the Blanding City Council who were supportive of the project and impressed by the amount of money available that could be used for it. The city agreed to provide the land, pay for the relocation of electricity and water and landscaping, as well as some financial assistance as needed. After meeting with the City Council, it was decided to put it near the Visitors Center.

Allison Ipson put together the artist’s concept for the memorial which will include six 8 ft. pillars with 10-inch bronze plaques with each military branch’s service motto on both sides. These will represent the Army, Navy, Marines, Airforce, Coast Guard and Space Force. In the center of the pillars will be a large kiva with a ladder and openings east and west with a large flagpole coming out of the center of the kiva. It will include the 4 traditional colors of the Navajo tribe: black= north, blue= south, yellow= west and white= east. The wall around the memorial will be 18 inches high with stone veneer.

When visitors arrive, they will first see a metal plaque: “What is a Veteran? Veterans are people who at one point in their lives wrote a blank check made payable to the United States of America for an amount of up to and including their life. That is honor.” The Gold Star Wall in the memorial will honor 29 individuals who lost their lives in battle (KIA). Their names will be etched into black polished granite. The memorial also includes the clock put in by Harold Lyman, a Korean War veteran.

Local families can purchase a paver to honor those in their family who have served in the military, but anyone can purchase pavers to be engraved at a cost of $360 (which is tax deductible as this is a nonprofit project.) Dedication of the memorial will be (hopefully) on Veterans Day Nov. 11, 2025. Contact Tony Wojcik at 435-459-2249 for more information. To order a paver, go to the city of Blanding web site, scroll down main page to Veterans Memorial, click on link to order and follow the instructions.

The construction team includes: Jones and DeMille Engineers, Javen Ivins, Allison Ipson, (concept rendering) and Taylor Made Wooden Heritage. The project will use local artisans and companies. Lights will be provided by Northern Electric and will be on from dusk to dawn to illuminate the memorial.